Before the term “buzz” achieved liberal usage, Asterisk already had it. French sophistication mixed with a smart Manhattan vibe, the uber-trendy lower Thames Street bar and bistro was among the first to introduce Newport to the astonishing concept of mixing espresso and vodka to create the liquid artistry known as the espresso martini. Fans flocked to Asterisk to sip, see and be seen.
But a lot has changed since 1996 when Danish-born chef/owner John Bach-Sorensen opened the restaurant in a renovated garage. Recent years have seen increasing competition in Newport from cocktail savvy players like The Fifth Element and Fluke. Others like Tallulah on Thames and the new tsk took up the farm to table charge.
So it’s good to see that Bach-Sorensen and his wife Tracy have made some changes to the place over the winter. The dark burgundy walls have been painted a light beige and black and white patterned pillows propped on the banquettes add visual interest and back support. The subtle decor includes new cream-colored light fixtures and upholstery; chairs have been painted white. Only the wait staff’s bright orange aprons pop with color. Other changes include a new half wall to section off the open kitchen and a chef’s table by the kitchen that seats 10 people.
The new neutral palette directs focus away from the decor and toward Bach-Sorensen’s unfussy European cuisine as was evident during Newport Restaurant Week. Indeed the spring version of this biannual food fest couldn’t have come at a better time to show off Asterisk’s renovations. Before the summer season brings the crowds to the city, locals had 10 budget-friendly days to explore the menu offerings at participating restaurants, try out the newcomers and revisit more mature establishments like Asterisk.
On restaurant week’s second Friday night, my husband and I made our first visit to Asterisk in we can’t remember how many years to see how things are shaping up. We found all the seats at the bar and the new chef’s table full. My poor husband Larry is on crutches so we chose the end of the banquette which proved unwise as we experienced an occasional draft whenever the door was opened. One of the problems with Asterisk’s configuration given its former status as a garage is the lack of an entrance foyer; it’s all one big dining room. Not a big deal in the summer. Kind of a problem when it’s 45 degrees out.
Bach-Sorensen’s restaurant week menu offered a choice between two appetizers and two main courses and a banana tarte
tatin with salted caramel ice cream for dessert. The appetizer choices were a smoked trout with asparagus and cream brie salad and a pear and prosciutto plate with Bonny Doon verjus dressing. Larry went with the pear and proscuitto, presented with the cured meat fanned out like a lovely flower, while I went with the generous pile of smoked trout cascading over grilled bread with asparagus spears meticulously sliced in half.
For the main course, we both went with the roasted nori wrapped salmon with celery mash, wasabi butter and mizuna salad over the rib eye steak option. The moist and flavorful salmon came with crispy skin and I thought the nori wrap was especially creative and added a nice salty crunch.
As for the tasty dessert, neither of us could finish it. Gourmet vanilla bean ice cream in caramel sauce topped the roasted bananas over the pastry shell, and rasberries artfully lined the rim of the plate. One banana tarte tatin to split would have been fine. But then restaurant week participants aim to please in both quality and quantity.
Asterisk certainly accomplished both these objectives, with colorful and creative dishes. Bach-Sorensen says he’s planning a menu revamp to highlight simple but elegant food. A new approach in the kitchen combined with the new, lighter look will go a long way to win back old fans and invite newcomers to enjoy a satisfying dining experience at this old but still good fixture on lower Thames Street.